Description : 14 Jun, 2023
Offering up in trade an 8 hp Briggs & Stratton L head (side valve, "flathead", non-OHV) engine block in exchange for a 5hp dual shaft Briggs flathead or a single, regular length, horizontal shaft Briggs L head that uses a starter cup instead of a clutch.
The stamped model # on the blower housing is illegible and I am assuming that it's an 8 horse rather than a 10 b/c the bore is a touch under 3", so it's likely a 190xxx model.
As you can see in the photos, she's quite fugly, but her cylinder is in pretty good shape with just some light vertical "etches"/scratches (as opposed to deep grooves or out & out scoring) on the fuel tank side that you can just feel with your fingertip, so they can easily be removed with a light honing tool (yes, I gave the head a cleaning b4 checking the cylinder). The older type, reusable head gasket was/is okay.
There was/is no looseness in the valve heads with the engine at TDC and just the tiniest bit of "play" in the exhaust valve when lifted by its tappet.
Prior to removing the blower housing & cylinder head, she registered pression reading of 74 psi, which is pretty good considering how carboned up the head & valves were (naturally, compression will improve once the valves are lapped and the clearances set to spec). Mind you, the pull cord is quite short and my inability to pull it quickly due to tendonitis in both shoulders also factored into the p reading.
And when pulling the cord with the plug out, the only noise emanating from the engine was the ssst-ssst from the piston ie there was no rod knock nor worn out valve guide ticking, the latter of which was verified after the head was removed (it was for the above reason & pression that I had kept the engine in the 1st place despite its fugliness).
The muffler bolts had already been snapped off close to the block, but that isn't a biggie b/c the inside of the manifold is threaded, so a screw in/on pipe/barrel type muffler can be used.
The shaft, btw, is 1" in diameter, 3" long, and tapped (ie it has a threaded hole in the end), so the engine can be used on a wood chipper.
The flo jet carburetor & air cleaner assy are still on it and I kept the fuel tank, which you can have if you want, tho the fmr will need to be cleaned & the latter's interior derusted. The tank still has its glass bowl sediment cup attached. However, I am assuming that whoever wants this block will service it & then transfer over the blwr hsing, tank, carb, coil, etc from the engine/block it is meant to replace, anyway.
The Briggs 5 I receive in trade needn't be running: it just needs to be in similar condition as to its block (ie undamaged cylinder, piston, rod, crank, sump cover, no cracks, etc). If a single shaft, the blower housing must be in good aesthetic condition and the tank rust free inside. If a dual shaft, which I prefer, I cd care less about the blwr hsing or tank or how fugly it is, so long as the block & ponents are undamaged.
Was holding onto the Briggs 8 simply b/c it's hard to find a nonrunning one with a good cylinder and I know a few ppl who abuse their machines & have an 8 on their Mighty Mac chipper, 1970s Toro 8/26 snowblower, or logsplitter, but am tired of it taking up limited garage space.
Since it's my ad and I'm offering up the more powerful & much rarer engine, it's pick up only. If the ad is up, it is available.
I also have the following good parts off an 8hp Briggs 190402-0831-01:
- tapped 1" dia crankshaft - part #261149 - discontinued/no longer available (NLA) new ~ $50
- piston, rings, wrist pin, conn rod, & dipper - the rod (#390401) is NLA ~ $50 for all
- cylinder head (#211778 - NLA) & gasket ~ $30
- (white, single shaft) crankcase/sump cover, incl governor gear assy - cover is part #299167 - will need a new seal & a cleaning ~ $25
All prices are firm.
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