AUTO REPAIR 60hr -JAMIE
Description : 05 Mar, 2023
*Auto Repairs $60/hr* PLEASE use my email-jmacnutt@ mobile. $25-45see mapbring to me(no fee) - i am doing as little mobile work as i can lately. only really diags. Suspension,Brake/Lines,Tim.Belts,bearings,NoStarts- Dependable-14yrs on Kij100's of regular clients Check my DIY tips below 469-4474-landline Email (I prefer email to phone) me with your problem and model/year, and I'll honestly tell you whether I would be a good option, or whether you need me at all (DIY). I do not supply parts (except brake line/fittings). I've heard it all and I have the patience. Emails promptly responded to. Typically i am booked 36-48 hrs ahead,so I can't usually do emergency calls, but try me if you must :) $60/hr plus a mobile fee, See my map, 2nd pic, for rates. If you live in an apartment building, Please find out if you are allowed to do auto repair before booking me. They are also problematic to work at. Some work cannot be mobile, for example I cant lug around my press. Honest, courteous service. 33 years under the hood, 10 years full time. My client request is very often to chase down a noise. Sometimes they are important, but often there will be a dramatic issue with the vehicle that is ignored because it not "the squeaking wheel". I find it shocking how many clients are satisfied with brake issues that would make me pull a car over. Just because you CAN stop the car, eventually, doesn't mean you could stop it in an emergency in time. You should never have to regularly feed the brake fluid reservoir. Brake fluid gets displaced very slowly as the pads get thinner taking up the extra volume. Normally you should only need to fill the reservoir once or twice during the lifetime of a set of pads. Any sloppiness in control of the vehicle -steering- should be immediately addressed and could point ponents (outer tie rod end, lower ball joint) that can suddenly pletely with catastrophic circumstances if at speed - rollover- I do not mend used parts if they are electrical, or have critical ponents. A lot of my clients diagnose their own cars and have me show up to change a part that isn't needed.I understand that you want to save money by trying to figure out the simple problems yourselves, perhaps a little guidance may be helpful. What is that sound? These may seem too obvious, but it seems not: If it only happens when the car is moving, the engine can likely be ruled out.If using the brakes changes the sound, then brakes are probably the issue. If the sound has a regular rythym, then tires, drivetrain or bearings may be suspected.If it is an irregular sound with no rythym, suspect a ponent. If it might be the engine(sound present when car not moving), it could be many things. Make sure your oil is at the right level. Brakes: A high pitched squeal(a slight squeal may be present on some vehicles and not mean anything) is probably wear indicators telling you your pads are almost gone.A grinding sound means you ran out of pad and are in the process of destroying your rotors. Weak braking where the pedal is "spongy" or goes to the floor easily is air in the lines and they must be bled(broken master cylinder is also a possibility), you may not need any parts. This happens from neglecting to keep the brake fluid resevoir filled. If all of a sudden your brake pedal goes to the floor, you probably have a broken brake line, and will have no brakes at all when the fluid is gone(quite quickly). It is normal for the brake pedal to go down some when starting engine with foot on brake. Charging System: Before assuming major problems, check that the battery terminals are secured tightly with little/no corrosion. Check the "main" fuse in the engine fuse box, it will be the largest one. Check main battery (-) terminal to block/body(ground wire). Check alternator drive belt for looseness. An old swelled poor battery can overstress an alternator, as can a piggy-backed 80 amp super woofer sound-system on a stock alternator. cheers, Jamie
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